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Working With Sheet Metal Tutorial

Page One: Introduction, Make A Template, Saw, File, & Drill

Many of the tools utilized in this tutorial can be purchase in the Warehouse Store.

 

So, you would like to work with sheet metal. Outlined in the following two pages are a number of skills that will help you add sheet metal to your wire jewelry designs - click on links to see that particular section:

Page One
 
Page Two
 
   
 
 
Introduction: Working With Sheet Metal
 

The skills listed here require practice and the use of good safety measures. I recommend taking classes from a qualified instructor so that you will learn how to use fabrication equipment safely and with skill. With a good foundation, you will be able to make wonderful jewelry knowing you are operating out of harm's way. These are just a few safety practices to keep in mind the list is not inclusive.

Safety Concerns:

  1. Wear a particulate respirator mask whenever you stir up dust from metal, or polishing compounds.
  2. Avoid eating, smoking and drinking in an area where there is metal or compound dust.
  3. When working with power equipment, always wear safety glasses and avoid loose clothing.
  4. Hold your sheet metal with a ring clamp when drilling. The drill bit can catch the metal sending it spinning up the bit. When you use a ring clamp your fingers will be out of the way should this happen.
  5. Keep your fingers out of the way of the saw blade. Saw blades are very sharp.
  6. Follow all safety recommendations that come with power tools.
  7. Ask for help if you need it.

 

 
Create A Template
 
First ask yourself “What do I want to create?” You may find it helpful to sketch some ideas prior to making your template. Consider making your sheet metal piece out of cardstock and assembling it as if it is sheet metal. For example, if I am making a sheet metal pendant, I can join all of the necklace components together (including the sample in card stock) and try the piece on. I will be better informed about how successful my design is. Once your are committed to a concept, using card stock, draw and cut out a template to be used as a pattern.
 
 

 

 

 
 
As seen in the image, I am making the front piece for a Santa Fe Bangle. Transfer the shape of your template to sheet metal using a permanent pen.
 
 

 

 

 
 

How do you know what gauge sheet metal to use? It depends on your project. The function, appearance, and scale of your design will help determine the gauge you choose. With experience you will discover what gauges work best, but, in the meantime, here are a few suggestions:

  • Charms and dangles – 22 to 26 gauge
  • Cuff – 18 to 20 gauge
  • Santa Fe Bangle front piece – 22 gauge
  • Corrugated sheet metal – 30 to 34 gauge
  • Pendants – 20 to 22 gauge
  • Earrings – 22-26 gauge
 
 
Preparation: Secure The Saw Blade
 
Loosen the top screw of your jeweler’s saw frame thereby opening the clamp where the blade can be secured. Carefully (blades are VERY sharp) place the top of your saw blade into the clamp and tighten the screw. Please see the chart below for determining the appropriate saw blade for the sheet metal you selected.
 
 

 

 

 
 

How do know you which way to place the blade in the clamp? Think of a fir tree. The branches face away from the trunk, and they slant down. The teeth of your saw blade should be facing away from the saw frame and slanting down. You can gently feel the blade to determine its correct position.

Now, the challenge is to tightly secure the bottom end of the blade in the lower clamp. Adjust the outside third screw of your saw frame so that the saw blade just touches the upper portion of the bottom, left clamp.

 
 

 

 

 
 
Grab a hot pad from the kitchen and place it at the bottom of your breast bone. Place the top of your saw frame in the “V” of your bench pin. If you don’t have a “V” in your bench pin you will need to cut one out with your saw frame after you secure the blade (see below). Press the bottom of the saw frame handle into the folded hot pad and push on the handle. (If this procedure is uncomfortable, add more padding underneath the handle of your saw frame). This pushing action shortens the space between the upper and lower nuts.
 
 

 

 

 
 

Loosen the bottom screw and carefully introduce the bottom of the blade into the clamp. Tighten the screw and release the pressure on the handle. Gingerly test the blade by strumming your index fingernail from the back to the front of the blade (there are no teeth on the back of the blade so you are not in danger of cutting yourself). The blade is tight when you hear a high pitch “ping”. The blade should be taut and not collapse as you saw your sheet metal. If you are breaking blades one possible problem is the blade is not tight enough.

  • 16 gauge sheet metal - #2 saw blade
  • 18 gauge sheet metal - #1
  • 20 gauge sheet metal - #1/0
  • 24 gauge sheet metal - #4/0
  • 26 gauge sheet metal - #6/0
  • 28 gauge sheet metal - #8/0
  • 30-34 gauge sheet metal - cut with shears
 
 
Preparation: Saw A “V” In The Bench Pin
 
Place your bench pin on the worktable so that the flat side is facing up. With a pen mark a “V” on the right hand side if you are right handed, and on the left if your are left handed. My “V” is about ¾ inch at the base and 1 inch high. With yours saw blade cut one side of the “V”. You do not need to put a lot of pressure on the blade – let it do the cutting. When you reach the top, loosen the upper nut and pull your saw frame down to release the blade from the wood. Secure the blade in the lower nut and cut the other side of the “V”. Please note: Some bench pins are flat on both sides and generally come with a clamp to secure it to your worktable. Others are constructed to fit into an anvil which is then clamped to your table. If you have the latter piece of equipment, introduce your bench pin into the anvil with the flat side facing up. The back of the bench pin should be sitting on top of your table.
 
 

 

 

 
 
Saw The Sheet Metal
 
Sawing is a skill that develops with practice. Add lubricant (beeswax, Cut Lube or Bur Life) to the blade by running the stick up and down the blade. The image shows you how to place your index and ring fingers to stabilize the sheet metal as you saw.
 
 

 

 

 
 

With smooth movements up and down with the saw frame, saw between your fingers and in the open “V” section of the bench pin. Sometimes you will have to re-position your fingers to stay clear of the saw blade. Saw the outside perimeter of the sheet metal.

Tips On Sawing

  1. Use the correct size saw blade for the sheet metal gauge.
  2. Make sure your blade is nice and tight.
  3. Lubricate the blade.
  4. Practice sawing on copper or brass sheet before diving into silver.
  5. The blade should be perpendicular to the floor as you saw.
  6. Saw with a light hand – no pressure on the blade.
  7. Use long smooth movements; use most of the length of the blade to saw.
  8. Turn corners by “sawing in place” as you turn the metal and the frame.

 
 
How To Saw A Hole In The Center
 
Some of your designs may require you to saw out the middle section. To do this, you will need a flexible shaft motor, Dremel, or a hand drill. Insert a small (#50 to #57) high speed steel twist drill into the drill collet. Insert about 1/3 of the drill bit into the collet – it is less likely to bend or break if you do this. In the image I am using a flex shaft inserted into a drill press especially designed for the Foredom Flex Shaft. Alternatively, you can drill by holding the flex shaft handpiece in an upright position. Before drilling, use a center punch and a mallet to create a divot in the central section of the sheet metal. Note: You may also use a hole punch if your sheet metal does not exceed the gauge tolerance for the punch.
 
 

 

 

 
 
Don safety glasses, hold the sheet metal with a ring clamp, place it on a piece of wood, and drill a hole into the divot. I suggest using a ring clamp to hold the metal instead of having your fingers in direct contact with the metal. Although it does not happen often, a drill bit can bend or break in which case you don’t want your hands in the vicinity of the drill bit. Another unexpected thing can happen where the drill bit grabs the sheet metal which then spins up the bit. Again, you don’t want your hands in contact with the sharp sheet metal.
 
 

 

 

 
 
Remove the blade from the bottom clamp of your saw frame. String the blade through the hole; reinsert the blade into the clamp.
 
 

 

 

 
 
Saw the inside section of your piece. Remove the sheet metal from the saw frame by loosening the bottom nut.
 
 

On To Page 2

 
 

 

   
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